Pixie Dusted in SE Asia TR

I don't mind shopping; but only when I want to...as opposed to being coerced to when it suits a guide!

Exactly!

Like Zanzibar, we wanted to go to the cheap and cheerful markets, not the costly pearl and embroidery shops, or the place that makes expensive Terracotta Army replicas. Whenever we asked about markets, our guides kind of freaked out. I think they had been told not to take us to them. So in the end we caught a taxi and visited some on our own. I bought a 'Gucci' wallet, only to go back to the hotel to swap my cards into it and I discovered all the pockets had been glued shut. :rotfl: Served me right.

Sorry to hear you weren't feeling that well that day. Was it your body adjusting to the different cuisine? I always get a bit queasy about half way into a trip where I'm not eating mostly Western meals.

I'm pleased your guide insisted on taking pics. The ones he's taken of the two of you in front of the big tree covered ruins are great.
 
hey. I'm sorry to hear you weren't feeling well the second day. That must have made the heat even worse to deal with. :( At least you did the quieter temples that day. I loved Preah Khan. So unique.

I loved Cambodia. Loved it! I really encourage all the people saying it's on their bucket list to go and go now before it gets really built up.

Did you visit any local handicraft places, like Angkor Handicraft Association or Artisans d'Angkor? We enjoyed that part of the trip as well.

also, did you buy elephant pants? It seemed like everyone was wearing elephant pants. Sometimes whole groups of people in the same elephant pants in different colors. We didn't buy any, but I did buy an elephant sarong. :goodvibes

I completely agree about encouraging people to go soon. It's certainly not an 'off the beaten path' experience anymore, and it will only more touristy. I'm glad we experienced it when we did.

We didn't go to any handicraft places - that's the sort of thing I would have expected our guide to take us to between temples, or at the end of the tour when we were asking what else we could do, and all he could suggest was shopping :furious:

When I first saw people walking around in those elephant pants at the hotel, I honestly thought they were still in their pyjamas :lmao: They did look nice and cool and quite practical for Cambodia, but I didn't buy any because I knew they would never see the light of day once we got home. I did buy a few maxi dresses in that same sort of material though :thumbsup2 They came in very handy over the next week or so.
 
Exactly!

Like Zanzibar, we wanted to go to the cheap and cheerful markets, not the costly pearl and embroidery shops, or the place that makes expensive Terracotta Army replicas. Whenever we asked about markets, our guides kind of freaked out. I think they had been told not to take us to them. So in the end we caught a taxi and visited some on our own. I bought a 'Gucci' wallet, only to go back to the hotel to swap my cards into it and I discovered all the pockets had been glued shut. :rotfl: Served me right.

Sorry to hear you weren't feeling that well that day. Was it your body adjusting to the different cuisine? I always get a bit queasy about half way into a trip where I'm not eating mostly Western meals.

I'm pleased your guide insisted on taking pics. The ones he's taken of the two of you in front of the big tree covered ruins are great.

Love your Gucci wallet story :rotfl2:

I think I ate something that didn't entirely agree with me (not necessarily bad, just different for me). But I couldn't seem to shake it, which might have been to do with the different food. I've been ok on previous trips, so I think the initial sick feeling must have been brought on by something else. Although I wasn't violently ill or anything, that constant queasy feeling did affect our trip for a few days, and made me miss out on heaps of great Vietnamese food :sad2:
 
Continued...

Next temple on the list was Banteay Srey. Although by this point in time I wasn't thrilled to hear that we were going to another temple, it was quite a drive away (about half an hour), and it was nice to see a bit more of the country. The roads were quiet (as was our guide).

The temple was in the middle of the countryside, surrounded by rice fields.



It was quite a different style to the other temples we'd seen, and one of the most intact, which was apparently due to a stronger stone being used in its construction.



It was only a small temple, but because it was so amazingly detailed and intact, there was a lot to see.









Like a lot of the other temples, it was surrounded by a small moat.





On the way to the exit, we walked past more rice fields, and enjoyed seeing the water buffalo.







By the time we were done there, it was lunch time. We were taken to a touristy restaurant down the road, which also had heaps and heaps of wood carvings and furniture for sale. I had a fairly plain fried rice, hoping that it wouldn't upset my tummy (it went down ok).



I was looking forward to getting to Tonle Sap, the huge lake with the floating village, in the afternoon. So I was disappointed to find us heading back into the Angkor area for one last temple. This one was called Pre Rup, and was back to the pyramid style. Our guide told us that this was actually a tomb for the king.









At this point our guide was quite friendly, and we chatted as we climbed the temple, and he willingly took our photos. We figured out that it must have been because he thought he was finishing up for the day.

When we finished at the temple, I asked the guide if we would be going to Tonle Sap next. He tried to talk us out of it! He told us how expensive it was, and that there wasn't really much to see there, and wouldn't be worth it for us. We asked if it was possible to drive around the edge of the lake instead of taking a boat out to the floating village (as we had seen in one of the hotel guides we had been reading) and were shot down immediately. It was also clear that if we didn't want to go to the lake, we wouldn't be going anywhere else either, unless we came up with some ideas on our own.

I was determined not to miss out again today, so I put my foot down and told him that we definitely wanted to go to the lake, regardless of the cost of the boat ride.
 
Wow! Your guide didn't want to take you where YOU wanted to go? :confused3

Remind me not to use the company you used when/if I get to Cambodia.
 
Wow! Your guide didn't want to take you where YOU wanted to go? :confused3

Remind me not to use the company you used when/if I get to Cambodia.

We just booked through the hotel because it seemed easiest and we'd always had good experiences doing that previously. I would recommend doing your own research. But I would recommend taking a tuk-tuk anyway over a car :thumbsup2
 
Continued...

We finally convinced our guide that we really did want to go to Tonle Sap, and set off. He was still very insistent that we go shopping, and we finally relented, not really knowing what sort of shop it would be.

Luckily the shop was on the way. It was a high end shop with lots of expensive jewellery, silk ties, ornaments etc. Yeah, it was right up our alley :rotfl2: We literally did one lap of the shop and walked out again.

We continued on towards the lake. It was a longish drive, right to the other side of town. On the way I was amazed at all the houses on massive stilts along the river. Some were even in the floodplain, and I wondered how people got into them during the wet season!

Eventually we arrived at the boat dock, and our guide organised a boat for us. The boats were very basic, just a few folding chairs set up along the sides, and it was just us and the guide (and the driver of course!).



I enjoyed the scenery along the way, and it was nice sitting in the shade of the boat with a nice breeze.









The boat ride was about 20-30 minutes, and soon we were approaching the floating village.









The guide pointed out the school.



We stopped at kind of a tourist store kind of place. One on platform there was quite a large gift shop, and on the other platform there was a bit of a farm with some fish and crocodiles. I really felt for the poor old crocodiles, about half a dozen of them cooped up in a tiny little hollow. What a life to lead until you are big enough to be skinned and made into a wallet huh?



Needless to say, we did not buy any crocodile products from the gift shop. In fact, the only thing we bought were some drinks.

Our guide pointed out the stairway to the 'roof' of the shop, where there were some great views over the whole floating village.





Then it was time to head back.



On the boat ride back, we saw more of the amazing stilt houses.



I've heard about (and seen some pictures of) amazing Cambodian sunrises and sunsets, and really had my heart set on experiencing one on this trip. I had actually thought we would be a bit longer out on the lake, and was hoping to see the sunset from there. Unfortunately we were far too early, and that was the full itinerary for today. I wanted to ask the guide to take us to the hill where we were supposed to watch the sunset on the previous day, but I was so sure I'd be shot down, I didn't even bother to ask.

We kind of discussed tipping on the way back to the hotel. I felt very awkward about the whole thing, as I was sure our guide would be expecting a large tip, but I really felt like he hadn't even deserved his pay! On the other hand, I really wanted to give the driver a tip. We ended up deciding that I would tip the driver, and DH would be in charge of tipping the guide. I gave the driver all the Cambodian money we had left (which would have been a grand total of about $3.50). DH said he gave the guide a similar amount in USD.

Anyway, back at the hotel, we decided that we wanted to check out one of the markets that night before dinner. We took a tuk-tuk into town for US $1. We spent an hour or so wandering around the market. We haven't really done much shopping on other trips, and I actually enjoyed the experience.

DH was just finalising one of his purchases when the power went out! It was dark by then, and we were right in the middle of the market, so we couldn't see a thing! It obviously happened quite a lot as most of the shop owners started bringing out torches/lanterns and just kept doing business as usual. We felt like that was as good a time as any to finish up our shopping expedition and head back to the street, where at least there was light from vehicles, and some places had back up generators.



We thought about eating at one of the many restaurants in the area, but we had told our waiter back at the hotel that we would see him on our last night, and didn't want to disappoint him. In hindsight, we could have had dinner in town then gone to the hotel restaurant just for drinks.

We hailed a tuk-tuk, and haggled the driver down to US $2 for the drive back to the hotel (it was a cheaper rate into town because the hotel had a deal with some local tuk-tuk drivers).

We went straight up for dinner. Lykhon was pleased to see us and, knowing that it was our last night, we exchanged facebook details. He offered to take us out to a few of his favourite bars once he had finished his shift. Still not feeling the best, I thought I'd better not. But DH was keen on the idea.

So after dinner we went back to our room, and I went to bed while DH got ready for an evening out. He went to have some more drinks at the hotel until Lykhon was ready. Unfortunately we only had one room key (which also powered our electricity), which DH took with him. We figured I wouldn't need lights while I was asleep, but we forgot about the air-con! It was only a couple of hours later I woke up feeling like I was roasting, and had to call reception to see if I could get another key. Luckily it was not a problem, and I slept comfortably the rest of the night.
 
What an adventure! I can't believe that the guide didn't want to take you to Tonle Sap. And he STILL wanted you to go shopping? I hope he was suitably disappointed that you didn't get anything from the high end shop.

I expect the power goes out a fair bit in that part of the world. Glad that you eventually got a spare key so that you could at least turn the AC back on.

And how awesome to develop that kind of relationship with your waiter. I know DH would have had a great time out. :rolleyes1
 
What an adventure! I can't believe that the guide didn't want to take you to Tonle Sap. And he STILL wanted you to go shopping? I hope he was suitably disappointed that you didn't get anything from the high end shop.

I expect the power goes out a fair bit in that part of the world. Glad that you eventually got a spare key so that you could at least turn the AC back on.

And how awesome to develop that kind of relationship with your waiter. I know DH would have had a great time out. :rolleyes1

Yeah I'm not sure where he got the impression that we would be likely to buy anything like that. We would have come across as fairly casual and laid back kind of people.

I suspect most hotels in the area have back up generators for when the power goes out. Luckily ours did.

And yes you already know how much of a great time DH had :rotfl:
 
wow, what an update. Sorry to hear you still felt ill. The restaurants we went to on Pub Street were all really good and relatively inexpensive, but it sounds like you all made a friend, how nice!

I'm also really glad your trip to the floating village was uneventful. They are actually running a big huge scam out there and fortunately, it sounds like you evaded it. We paid 20 a person for a 90 minute private boat ride. We thought the price was too high, but we like to ride a boat and thought it would be relaxing after all the walking and climbing from the day. It was, mostly, and we did reach the crocodile farm in time for the sunset, which was nice.

However, the bad side of the trip is that they usually take people to that floating school. On the way to the school, they take you by a store and pressure you to buy food for the children at the school. They start by pushing $50 for a 50 lb bag of rice. I told the guy we didn't have 50 dollars. Then he said we could buy the 30 lb bag for 30 dollars. I shook my head, "don't have". He asked how much we wanted to donate. I gave ten dollars for some water just to get out of there and move on with our day. I'm sure the water is sold back later and it was way overpriced anyway. I looked up the village on Trip Advisor later and found that this scam is common and some people said they gave the 50 dollars because they feel frightened as they're alone out there on the lake with just the driver and guide. I'm glad this didn't happen to you!
 
wow, what an update. Sorry to hear you still felt ill. The restaurants we went to on Pub Street were all really good and relatively inexpensive, but it sounds like you all made a friend, how nice!

I'm also really glad your trip to the floating village was uneventful. They are actually running a big huge scam out there and fortunately, it sounds like you evaded it. We paid 20 a person for a 90 minute private boat ride. We thought the price was too high, but we like to ride a boat and thought it would be relaxing after all the walking and climbing from the day. It was, mostly, and we did reach the crocodile farm in time for the sunset, which was nice.

However, the bad side of the trip is that they usually take people to that floating school. On the way to the school, they take you by a store and pressure you to buy food for the children at the school. They start by pushing $50 for a 50 lb bag of rice. I told the guy we didn't have 50 dollars. Then he said we could buy the 30 lb bag for 30 dollars. I shook my head, "don't have". He asked how much we wanted to donate. I gave ten dollars for some water just to get out of there and move on with our day. I'm sure the water is sold back later and it was way overpriced anyway. I looked up the village on Trip Advisor later and found that this scam is common and some people said they gave the 50 dollars because they feel frightened as they're alone out there on the lake with just the driver and guide. I'm glad this didn't happen to you!

Oh I read about that scam actually in one of the brochures at the hotel :eek: Yeah I'm glad we managed to avoid that one too! Apparently they will also take you to the orphanage for the same sort of thing. The guidebook advised us to request not to go to the school or the orphanage, so I was quite glad to skip those.

Apart from that, it sounds like much the same sort of thing we did. Except we missed the sunset :sad2: $20 per person is very expensive for that boat ride, but it seems to be the going rate and it would be particularly worth it at sunset I think :thumbsup2 I was surprised at how expensive the Angkor complex was too!
 
Great update. Good on you for sticking to your guns and getting the guide to take you to the lake.

How did your DH enjoy his night on the town?
 
Siem Reap - Hoi An

Today I woke up feeling a little better. DH on the other hand... was not in a good way. I busied myself on facebook etc while he slept it off. Our flight wasn't until late afternoon, so there was no hurry.

After a couple of hours, I realised that DH was not going to be able to leave the hotel at check out time. I went down to reception and explained the situation. They said we could have the room until 2pm, when we were planning to leave for the airport. I went back upstairs to tell DH the good news.

I didn't really want to waste my last day in Cambodia nursing a hungover husband in our room, so I decided to go into town on my own and just wander around the markets and general area, maybe take a walk along the river. I walked back downstairs to order a tuk-tuk, but there was only one on duty today and he was already out. I thought I'd better make sure there would be one later to take us to the airport!

It was nearly lunch time by then, and neither of us had eaten anything yet. I thought it might be nice to go and have my lunch by the pool, and told DH I would send something as close to Maccas as they had up for him. He ended up with a ham and cheese toasted sandwich with chips. I ordered some spring rolls, which I think was a bad idea.

While I was waiting for my lunch, Lykhon showed up. It was his day off, but he had come in to say goodbye to us :goodvibes I might have had a go at him for getting DH into such a bad way :rotfl: He obviously felt awkward about being there, and was trying to keep out of sight as much as possible, but he eventually came up to our room to see DH.



By the time Lykhon left, it was time to get ready and head to the airport. DH was still sick as a dog, and couldn't keep anything down. Nonetheless, we headed down to reception. I checked out while DH sat down, then we made our way to our waiting tuk-tuk. The ride to the airport was, thankfully, uneventful and I think the fresh air may have been good for DH.

We arrived at the airport and joined the short line to check in for our Silkair flight. We had booked this on Velocity points :thumbsup2 The line was reasonably short, but check in was taking an astonishing amount of time for each group. DH had to go and sit down while I continued to stand in line. Nearly an hour later :faint: we were finally checking in! Next was security and passport control, where there was no line and it took us about 5 minutes to get through both.

DH had managed to go all that time without being sick, and was hoping it would last. I sat him down in the gate lounge while I had a look around some of the airport shops. I found a chemist, and wondered if they had anything similar to gastrolyte that might help DH. I walked out with some anti-nausea pills and a bottle of water. DH was worried about taking the pills in case it made him sick again, but decided there was enough time before the flight to give it a try.

I'm pleased to say that it was an uneventful flight. DH was actually perking up a little by the time we landed in Vietnam!

We landed at Da Nang airport, and had pre-arranged a transfer to Hoi An through our hotel. We already had visas, so we avoided the LONG line for them, and went straight through passport control, collected our bags which were basically coming out as we got there, then found our driver.

The driver was great, even though he didn't speak much English. He pointed out stuff along the way, and told us about 'hotel row' going up along the beach. Those hotels are crazy massive :eek:

About 45 minutes later we arrived at the hotel. As usual, hotel staff swooped on us to take our luggage and bring us our welcome drinks. The girls at the check in desk handed me a lovely bunch of flowers, and surprised us with a free upgrade for our anniversary :goodvibes We had booked a regular pool view room, and ended up with one of the beautiful suites on the top floor. More pixie dust!







This is probably my favourite hotel to date! The rooms were beautiful, the pool area was gorgeous, the staff were amazing, and the breakfast buffet was great! And on top of all of this, it was AMAZING value!

It was still early enough when we arrived that we could have walked into town for dinner, but because we were both still feeling a little unwell, we decided to order room service instead. After eating and checking out all the features of the room (including the massive balcony), we called it a night.
 
I was expecting Cambodia to be much like Vietnam. What I found was something completely different, and I found that I wasn't prepared at all! I just thought I'd point out some of the things that surprised me, so hopefully others can go in with a bit more insight.

* After making a special effort to get Cambodian money on our arrival at the airport, we found what we really needed was USD. All the ATMs in Siem Reap dispense USD, and everything is priced in USD. You *can* pay in Cambodian money, but you will probably get ripped off by the exchange rate (the rate that most vendors use is 4000 to 1, but the actual rate of course varies day by day and is usually slightly lower than that). Although USD seems to be the main currency in Siem Reap, they don't have any coins. So if you need change of less than $1, you will get it in the equivalent Cambodian money.

* Entry to the Angkor complex is expensive (for that part of the world) and must be paid in cash. It's $20 for a one day pass, $40 for a 3 day pass, and there is also a 5 day pass available but I forget how much it was, maybe $60? Also be aware that boat rides at Tonle Sap are $20 per person, and that must also be paid in cash.

* The whole city (and especially the temples) is coated in a fine red dust, which will get into all your clothes and shoes. I would recommend wearing an old pair of sneakers to the temples, and socks you don't care about getting stained. Make sure you take an extra plastic bag to keep all your soiled clothes and shoes separate.

* Tuk-tuks are the best way to get around, hands down. The roads are mostly quiet, and you really don't go any faster in a car. Most tuk-tuks we saw seemed to have 2 bench seats facing each other in the 'cabin' section, with room for 4 people. The front bench seat seemed to convert into a luggage rack for trips to the airport, and the two of us and our luggage fit nicely.

* A guide can make or break your experience at the temples. Do your research and book with a guide that gets good reviews. Otherwise, I recommend taking a guide book and exploring at your own pace. Make sure you do your own research on what else you want to do in the area. I think this would be especially important if you're going with children. Kids would have been bored and complaining on our tour.

* It was much hotter than I was expecting, but luckily I was prepared for the heat in other places so I had all the right clothes with me. I recommend 3/4 pants or a maxi skirt in cool material for the temples. If you also wear a cool t-shirt that covers your shoulders (or stash a lightweight overshirt in your bag), you can feel comfortable going anywhere in the temples without being a disrespectful 'tourist'. Also make sure you are wearing comfortable shoes, because there is a lot of walking and climbing steep and uneven stairs involved.

* I was surprised at how busy the temples are. If this is something on your bucket list, I encourage you to do it soon before the masses arrive. It is already too late to enjoy the sunrise at Angkor Wat (they get crowds of 600+ people).

* And speaking of sunrises, the guide book we read at the hotel suggested Sras Srang as an alternative to Angkor Wat. Unfortunately I didn't get to try it, but I think it would have been beautiful there. I would suggest trying to catch the sunset on Tonle Sap. I've seen some beautiful photos and I think it would really make the experience that little bit more special.

I think that's it! I'll add to the list if I think of anything else :thumbsup2
 
I believe DH had a pretty good night :rolleyes1

Hahaha, it certainly sounds like it.

You sound like you were much more attentive and sympathetic than I would have been. My poor DH probably would have got a few scowls and "serves you rights". :rotfl:

Great news getting the room upgrade at the hotel. What was the name of the hotel? I'll have to file it for future reference.
 

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