The ABCs of Greece & Italy! X, Y, and Z, and that Friends is THE END!!! :) See you in Asia and Australia, Join Me THERE!!

[Paulaparm]

The mummy is interesting...

 

[Wood Nymph]

It looks like you had a decent walking distance.

However, it does have something(s) that were wholly new to me- mummies and effigies.

The mummies are a little creepy. The dress is gorgeous, though.

A few folks were out for an afternoon swim in the Adriatic Sea, while many others where relaxing on the seafront concrete wall soaking up the sun.

The Adriatic Sea looks so very blue, and very relaxing.

 

[disneyAndi14]

What a beautiful seaside town in Italy. It is the perfect place to explore and the bolognese looks scrumptious!
I love your pictures and all your details. I feel like I am right there with you!
By the way, I know all about the lack of sleep at night now, ugh!
I know exactly what you mean about the sleepless nights. I just can’t sleep anymore! I am up numerous times a night. I wake up sometimes every couple hours! I long for the years when I could sleep all night and not wake up once for 7-8 hours! It sucks! I don’t even have to go to the bathroom, I just can’t sleep

 

[Captain_Oblivious]

I’m old. It’s official. The fuddy-duddy factor is real, and my body feels it. Especially when I’m up against an almost 21-year-old who has way more energy than I do. I mean, she’s not up all night with arthritic neck pain or a failing bladder. TMI? Heh. If you’re over 50, you know what I’m talking about. If you’re not, we’ll talk when you are.

I don't like this "getting old" thing. Not fun at all.

Compared to the cathedral in Florence, Bari’s is quite plain.

I guess we know where the money went.

Nevertheless, there is a bona fide mummy laying in full Renaissance clothing for your viewing pleasure.

Allrighty then.

We also didn’t even see the basement area excavations which bums me out as I write up this chapter. I had NO idea they were there and am sad to have missed them. ☹ Next time…

Well, that's a bummer. Sorry you missed out.

Next, we wandered to the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, the one, the only, place where Santa Claus’ bones are buried.

Huh. I had no idea!

We also thought the museum might be a bit cheesy for the price, so passed on that as well.

It can't possibly be as nice as North Pole, Alaska.

I do know that I got an order of Orchietti Bolognese. OH. MY. HECK! I cannot rave about this amazing dish enough. It was so, so good with loads of parmesan and ground beef? veal? Yum!!

Ooh, that looks mighty tasty! Yes please.

 

[Steppesister]

Z is for: Zealous in the Kitchen!
​

We woke up early the next morning, at least I did, and ventured out for some more of that luscious Italian coffee. So creamy and thick!! The weather in Bari was absolute perfection and I sat with my pastry and latte with that amazing view of the Castel Svevo across the street. How could this not be “the life”?!

Anara asked me to pick up a grilled sandwich of any kind for her, so she ended up with something like a ham and cheese (?). I have no idea, but it was NOT a chocolate or almond croissant, so she had the inferior breakfast. We had arranged with our new hostess for a 10:00 AM pickup in front of the castle, so there was no rush to finish up our packing. After we did, we made our way out of the vast maze of the narrow stone alleys of our Bari neighborhood with our baggage and waited for Rita.

Patience, they say, is a virtue. There are times I have very little. But with nothing to do but wait, we did. Rita finally arrived around 10:35. Adjustments were made, grace was given. Rita is an elderly woman with a very significant handicap in mobility. It is VERY hard for her to get around with her cane and is very slow, but she is still able to drive and was able to give us one of the most amazing experiences of my life. You may be wondering where Rita was taking us! Let me paint a picture…

For those of you who haven’t been, or for folks who didn’t make it to the countryside outside of the big cities, Italy offers hundreds of villas and old farmhouses to stay in which offer cooking lessons, tours of the old workings, wine tastings with meals, etc… I researched for weeks about an “agriturismo” stay in the Puglia region near the area that our Disney server sent me and found this one:

https://cucinainmasseria.it/

From Rita’s website: “Built by my ancestors, once a 17th century olive oil mill, Masseria Serra dell’Isola is today a unique place for travelers to relax and find tranquility, while cooking far away from the hectic cities.” Every word was my dream come true.

Our luggage barely fit into her tiny little stickshift (cue ominous music and breathe in that familiar scent of foreboding) European economy-mobile and off we went to navigate the 30-minute journey to the farmhouse near the little town of Mola di Bari. Rita had other plans for us along the way which she thought would be very interesting for us to see- stopping at the butcher so he could hand cut our meat for the evening Secondi course. I was beginning to learn that rural Italy works on an entirely different timeframe that I am used to. Everything takes longer. A lot longer. Things are done with more care, especially things that concern food and eating. The stop at the butcher took almost an hour while he finished up someone else’s order and then listened to Rita’s vey careful instructions on which cut, how thick or thin, how much of each meat. Yes, you heard that right. She thought that cooking 4 types of meat over the next 2 days would be a good idea.

​

I could already tell that these would be meals that would remind me of my eating until I felt utterly sick in Kazakhstan. (For those of you who have not read my TRs for a very long, my family and I lived and worked in Western Kazakhstan for about 10 years and meals were... a thing.)

With our bag of meats in hand, it was time to finally make our way to the old farmhouse and boy was I excited! This was such a unique and out-of-the-box experience; I couldn’t wait to enjoy all that this would be.

We pulled in off of the little country lane and were shown to our lovely room and given a quick tour of the house and kitchen area. After that, Rita let us freshen up and relax before we started cooking. Our room was amazing! It was chockful of antique furniture, old portraits, and tchotchke scattered about. There were gauze curtains hung on high open windows fluttering in the breeze that blew through and the little sitting room just off to the side was absolutely charming.

(A loaded lemon tree right outside our room!)​

Anara laid down for a bit and I decided to explore the grounds and gardens. Much of what we’d eat the evening was grown right there at the Masseria; mmm, so good and so fresh!

​

By now in this trip to the Mediterranean, I’d learned that you can tell a lot about olive trees by their size. I’m sure that the ones growing here on Rita’s acreage were hundreds of years old and were loaded for the harvest that was just beginning in their region. The summer garden was showing signs of weariness by mid-October, yet some peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants were still fighting for the chance to make it to the tabletop.

​

The citrus was still blooming for the January crop while the grapes had succumbed to their harvest for another year of Puglian wine; most in this area of Italy is consumed in private homes fueling laughter and stories around tables with friends and family.

​

Continued in Next Post...

 

[Steppesister]

Continued from Previous Post...

Around 11:30 we gathered in the kitchen to make our first meal: Baked eggplant with fresh herbs and topped with breadcrumbs and olive oil, Oven-roasted peppers and tomatoes with fresh herbs and olive oil (are you sensing a theme?), focaccia bread, sparkling water, and wine. A lighter sort of fare for which I’d later be eternally grateful for.

While I waited for the others to show up, I took some photos of the collection of antique cookware and crockery still in use today. The liquor stash was truly astounding with much of it being homemade or very old.

​

Rita gave each of us a little notebook so we could write down the steps in the recipes as we went along, and sadly, that’s all in Bowling Green…. where I am not. Did I mention I took a contract in Lexington, KY at the University of Kentucky? It’s a Level 1 Trauma Magnet Hospital and frankly, I’m scared to death to start on the floor tomorrow. I’ve never recovered transplant patients and anticipate a whole new level of skillset I’ve either not practiced in a while or never done. All that to say, the little recipe book I made while I was at Rita’s is “back home” (wherever that is) so you’ll have to rely on my 50+-year old memory. (Most of us know how THAT goes. )

​

So, without further ado, here are a few of the snapshots I gathered as we cooked our little hearts out in Rita’s 400-year old farmhouse kitchen. The lady you see with Anara cooking bread is “Victoria” who Rita hires to help with guests in the Agriturismo. With her difficulties walking, it’s becoming harder and harder to do what she obviously loves by herself.

We started with chopping up the veggies for the 2 veggie dishes and set those aside.

​

Next, we took turns learning how to mix the focaccia dough “just right”, learning that there is a certain skill in the wrist-flicking action that has to happen in order to lighten up the dough with air bubbles. I was not doing it right and swiftly replaced with my daughter who garnered high praise with her “perfect technique”.

​

About 12:30 the local cheesemaker also arrived to give us our lesson in making homemade cow's milk burrata and mozzarella knots. This would be for dinner and breakfast the next morning as that had to cure for a bit before eating.

​

Some YouTubes I made from the video I took:

​

By 1:30 the cheese was made (yes, we all made a few mozzarella balls!), the focaccia was baked to a golden perfection, the vegetable dishes were hot out of the oven, and we all sat down to meal of epic deliciousness. The wine flowed, we told stories about our lives, and had such a lovely, wonderful time over our first meal.

​

But the day was still young, and more Mola di Bari exploring was to be done! Next up: I get a marriage proposal from a fishy kind of guy.

 

[Wood Nymph]

With our bag of meats in hand, it was time to finally make our way to the old farmhouse and boy was I excited! This was such a unique and out-of-the-box experience; I couldn’t wait to enjoy all that this would be.

This looks like it was a wonderful break from touring cities and museums.

Next, we took turns learning how to mix the focaccia dough “just right”, learning that there is a certain skill in the wrist-flicking action that has to happen in order to lighten up the dough with air bubbles. I was not doing it right and swiftly replaced with my daughter who garnered high praise with her “perfect technique”.

I didn't realize that focaccia dough was so wet.

we cooked our little hearts out in Rita’s 400-year old farmhouse kitchen.

The kitchen is like a real look into the past. Do you use the pots and pans that were displayed on the antique stove? The cookware looks like it was hand made rather than from a factory.

 

[pkondz]

The weather in Bari was absolute perfection and I sat with my pastry and latte with that amazing view of the Castel Svevo across the street. How could this not be “the life”?!

I'd say that definitely sounds like "the life".

it was NOT a chocolate or almond croissant, so she had the inferior breakfast.

Rita finally arrived around 10:35.

I was thinking that in Italy, 35 minutes late probably would be considered "early".

Rita is an elderly woman with a very significant handicap in mobility. It is VERY hard for her to get around with her cane and is very slow,

But then I read this and had to adjust my thinking.

Italy offers hundreds of villas and old farmhouses to stay in which offer cooking lessons,

Really! That sounds like a lot of fun. I'd do that in a heartbeat.

stopping at the butcher so he could hand cut our meat for the evening Secondi course.

I think butcher shops are vastly underrated. So many people just go to the local supermarket and get whatever's packaged... It's usually more expensive, but so much better, at the butcher's.

Italy works on an entirely different timeframe that I am used to. Everything takes longer. A lot longer.

I suspect much of the world is slower paced than North America.

Yes, you heard that right. She thought that cooking 4 types of meat over the next 2 days would be a good idea.

well... yeah. I don't see a problem here.

Our room was amazing! It was chockful of antique furniture, old portraits, and tchotchke scattered about. There were gauze curtains hung on high open windows fluttering in the breeze that blew through and the little sitting room just off to the side was absolutely charming.

Sounds very nice.

She certainly looks happy with the accommodations.

(A loaded lemon tree right outside our room!)

Whoa!

It looks so calming and relaxing.

I’d learned that you can tell a lot about olive trees by their size. I’m sure that the ones growing here on Rita’s acreage were hundreds of years old and were loaded for the harvest that was just beginning in their region.

Huh. And... "hundreds of years old".
The age and culture of Europe is practically unfathomable.

Puglian wine; most in this area of Italy is consumed in private homes fueling laughter and stories around tables with friends and family.

That sounds amazing!

Around 11:30

Wait...

Something isn't adding up. You were picked up around 10:35... went to the butcher that took a long, long time.... settled in and freshened up in your room... walked around the grounds... and then started cooking at 11:30? Is that right?

Baked eggplant with fresh herbs and topped with breadcrumbs and olive oil, Oven-roasted peppers and tomatoes with fresh herbs and olive oil (are you sensing a theme?)

Yes. The theme is... things cooked in an oven.

Easy.

While I waited for the others to show up, I took some photos of the collection of antique cookware and crockery still in use today. The liquor stash was truly astounding with much of it being homemade or very old.

All of that is... well, for a cook, I just fell in love.

Did I mention I took a contract in Lexington, KY at the University of Kentucky?

Good for you!

Um... I think??

It’s a Level 1 Trauma Magnet Hospital and frankly, I’m scared to death to start on the floor tomorrow.

Not for me!
But... I know you'll do great.

you’ll have to rely on my 50+-year old memory. (Most of us know how THAT goes. )

Very nice picture of you.

Drool-worthy

Next, we took turns learning how to mix the focaccia dough “just right”, learning that there is a certain skill in the wrist-flicking action that has to happen in order to lighten up the dough with air bubbles. I was not doing it right and swiftly replaced with my daughter who garnered high praise with her “perfect technique”.

It looks like she's slapping it!

About 12:30 the local cheesemaker also arrived to give us our lesson in making homemade cow's milk burrata and mozzarella knots.

the focaccia was baked to a golden perfection, the vegetable dishes were hot out of the oven, and we all sat down to meal of epic deliciousness.

Just sounds... incredible.

Next up: I get a marriage proposal from a fishy kind of guy.

 

[rdkeim]

Wow - what an authentic experience! I don't think you or your DD will ever forget this memory. Nice to see the Italian countryside and not just the tourist areas. So awesome!

 

[Paulaparm]

Oh my goodness...that kitchen is amazing!!!
What an awesome experience

 

[disneyAndi14]

What a wonderful experience, very unique in every way!,
The vegetables and focaccia looks delicious

 

[KathyM2]

I'm a little scared about all the foreboding you mentioned...the cooking and food looked amazing so far...and what fun to get to learn how to make it all in someone's home!!

 

[Steppesister]

Hello My DIS-Friendlies:

Just popping on to give a brief Real-Life-Update. It's been a crazy couple of weeks with starting my new travel contract up here in Lexington at UK and trying my best to stay on track with working my way through the copious amounts of material with school. Yesterday I had the 'privilege' of studying how to diagnose and manage everything skin-related- from scabies to Stevens Johnson Syndrome. I also learned that toenail fungal infections are nearly impossible to treat and eradicate. You're welcome.

Anyway, I can also say I've lived through 2 tornados now. On Sunday we had one blow through and we were out of power for several days. I was thankful for my coffee and shower this morning!!

I will get to replies when I can (hopefully this weekend). Meantime, hope you are all well and had a nice celebration on the 4th if that's what you do.

 

[pkondz]

travel contract up here in Lexington at UK

I did a double take at that...
But... Lexington, Kentucky... okay... not in the United Kingdom.

Yesterday I had the 'privilege' of studying how to diagnose and manage everything skin-related- from scabies to Stevens Johnson Syndrome.

So you are among the privileged few, are you?

I also learned that toenail fungal infections are nearly impossible to treat and eradicate. You're welcome.

Erm... thank you?

Anyway, I can also say I've lived through 2 tornados now. On Sunday we had one blow through and we were out of power for several days. I was thankful for my coffee and shower this morning!!

Whoa! Glad you're okay!

 

[vamassey1]

Getting caught back up again.

I really your time in Florence and Bari but the cooking stay in the country is so authentic and different. How great to see the real Italy.

 

[Steppesister]

Friends... Welcome to my Little Pity Party. I apologize in advance.

I'm drowning. I'm discouraged and defeated a little.

This class (Primary Care of the Adult Population) is, for me anyway, much more time-consuming and difficult than the others (Patho and Pharm) and it's all I can do to get enough sleep and rest. I have really no downtime as I work from 1-11:30PM, get to bed at 12:30 or 1, get up by 9:30 and study until I go to work again. On my days "off", I study from 9A- 10P with little breaks for at least a little mental health. I'm tired.

I'm not sharing all of that for sympathy or to make myself look good. I'm just being honest and need to ask a favor. If you are following this thread and have commented, please understand that I don't have the energy or time to reply until I get this class behind me. HOWEVER, writing and sharing is my therapy in some ways and allows me to step away from Diabetes, Gout, and Influenza (and 100 more, no exaggeration) diagnoses and treatments for a short time. I need the mini-vacations!!!

I KNOW that many, including myself when I am more active on the Boards and able to read reports and comment, have a hard time "investing" in peoples' threads if there is no reciprocation or interaction. I get it!! Honest! I am no different. BUT!!! For this short season of insanity, let me enjoy giving you the occasional chapter and indulge me with your beautiful, heartfelt comments, insights, whatever you care to leave for me. It DOES encourage me. It gives me a diversion from my very stressful life (did I mention that 40 hours a week in a high-acuity Recovery Room of a teaching hospital is a small piece of Hell in and of itself?). You, my friends, I can honestly say, keep me going just by being here and sharing even a word or two.

I am not one now, but two, chapters behind on comments, but I just don't have it in me to go back. But I PROMISE I have read and smiled at every single one- they are a treasure. I'm going to work on another chapter and if I am honest with both myself and you, my readers, I won't be able to comment for some time. I have 13 weeks left to pass this class. I plan to take the Practice Exam on the 13th, the REAL Exam 6 or so weeks after that, and should I fail it (many, many do) I will have to remediate and try again. The pressure is enormous.

So... with that, I hope you enjoy the chapter coming up and bless you all.

 

[juniorbugman]

Sending you positivity and encouragement.
I do read every chapter and chuckle over your adventures. I think of comments to make but never do but I am an avid reader and I am sure I would read medical notes if you posted that. You make trip reporting fun.

 

[Steppesister]

A is for: Along the Adriatic Seacoast​

Mola di Bari is a small fishing village on the Adriatic Coast, very near the bigger town of Bari where we’d wandered the winding alleys watching the Nonnas making Orchietti and touring the Swabian Castle Svevo. Our little Agriturismo was just outside of Mola di Bari and, after our afternoon of cooking lunch, Rita had planned for us to go to the harbor to see the fishermen come in from their day at sea.

EDITED: Anara DID go with me! I talked to her tonight AFTER I posted this and she was indignant that I forgot she was there. Oops.

At first I had written that she and Shannon, the other guest didn't go because Anara hates fish. It is true, she does hate fish, but she was with me on this field trip.

I love a good photo opp and am always up for adventure. So off the two of us went. Rita timed this perfectly- as do all locals when they want the very freshest, first-off-the-boat, catch-of-the-day.

​

Motoring in and tying off, each crew of fishermen began to haul box after box of iced menagerie ashore- clawed, finned, and shelled. Some even smiled for the camera!!

​

There was animated chatter and occasional bursts of laughter at jokes and stories, but it was also occasionally obvious that a foreign lady was amongst the crowd (who didn’t speak one word of Italian). Which made me fair game for being a topic. I got the feeling that a bit of added bravado and a few extra large fish stories were being passed around for my amused benefit. At one point, one of the co-op leader/fish buyer/wholesalers took a bit of an extra interest and asked Rita "why she was bringing beautiful, young women to the docks”. “Are you trying to find her a husband? I am available…”

​

I couldn’t help it.

I burst our laughing, and awkwardly turned my attention back to the fish in the iced crates.

I hope I didn’t offend, but I literally had NO idea how to react or reply. Was I supposed to be witty? Was he expecting a date? What the heck? I just don't think I could come home to fish stink every day.

ETA: Anara reminded me that they also sang us an Italian fishing song!!

With my clear non-interest, he continued his haggling over the weights, the quality, and astute analysis of the current Molanese fish market and I wandered off to the actual retail fish market building across the street.....

... which was obviously a MAN’S world. Maybe a woman hadn’t stepped foot in there in centuries, but I played the dumb tourist card and boldly took a few more photos until Rita came to find me.

I did ask about the glaring lack of women, and she confirmed that indeed, the art of buying fish is considered a man's job.

We only took home one small furry crab, given to Rita for free, (did you know that “furry” crabs even exist?!) to use as flavoring for the broth for dinner that night. But I adore my fishy photos and it was an experience I’ll never forget.

​

Once “home”, we all got to cooking again and WOW was it ever a meal! Those Italians sure know how to eat! Jeez, Louise!

Remember those orchietti the Nonnas were making in Bari? Well, Rita had homemade orchietti on the menu and had all 3 of us expert handmade pasta makers in now time! Such fun!!! Victoria, Rita’s kitchen helped us make the dough, then gave each of us some. We rolled our pasta dough “snakes”, then perfected our “little ears pasta”-making technique giggling endlessly. I was declared the “winner” (remember I sucked at focaccia earlier and was voted off that island?). So, YAY ME!

​

Set aside for later, we started on the meat dishes. Yep, that meat we’d bought from the butcher on the way in. Little roulades were expertly prepared with herbs and parmesan stuffed in the middle, rolled, then stewed in a rich wine and tomato sauce for a couple of hours.

​

Rita also boiled some sausages in a wine. I think she thought 15 olive-harvesting men were going to join us. LOL!!

(Sausages, NOT potatoes!) ​

What else…? A gorgeous cream sauce for the orchietti so we could have it two ways. I mean, why not?!

Orchietti 1.0

​

Orchietti 2.0

​

OH!! And some rigatoni to wash it all down? Sure, I’m game. I mean one dish was more than enough, but 5?!

​

No Italian meal is complete without dessert, right? A light, fluffy Lemon-Ricotta Cake would be just perfect. And it was. So perfect in fact, we had it for breakfast the next day too.

​

It was a given that there was plenty of red wine. I mean, duh. Focaccia and olive oil? Yep, had that too. Did I feel sick afterwards. Maybe a little. Was it delicious? YOU KNOW IT!!!

(See a bit of the furry crab made it onto my plate!) ​

We were exhausted from a long day of cooking and laughing and traveling and touring. Our cozy bed was just perfect for Italian Seaside dreams….

 

[juniorbugman]

Yup I am with your daughter - no fishies for me. Don't want them looking back at me. Oh wait I am a just for the halibut girl.
The meals looked divine and did she share her recipes so that you can recreate them at home? Homemade orchetti pasta - oh yum.

 

[Steppesister]

Sending you positivity and encouragement.
I do read every chapter and chuckle over your adventures. I think of comments to make but never do but I am an avid reader and I am sure I would read medical notes if you posted that. You make trip reporting fun.

Thank you SO much Judy. That means a lot.

I have actually thought of posting One Medical Nugget a Day on FB, but then forget or think that most folks wouldn't be that interested. I am definitely in the "firehose" mode.