Trip Report: July 5, 2014 Central Europe ABD (Austria, Germany & The Czech Republic)

Cesky Krumlov is just beautiful! I understand what you all were talking about now. That's an interesting castle, though. Not what I tend to think of when I think "castle". (I think I think more of the ones you see in Germany or Scotland!)

I'm not sure I'd go to the Eagle's Nest, either. I'm very torn about such things. I know you need to see the remnants and memorials, but I don't think I'd want to do it while on an ABD. Too somber. I can see doing it pre-days in Prague, but I'm not sure I'd want to interrupt the flow of the ABD with something that serious. Maybe I'll change my mind. Who knows!

Sayhello
 
Today was the day I was probably most looking forward to on the ABD: the ice caves! But first, the amazing breakfast buffet at the Intercontinental. Unfortunately, I didn’t take pictures, but can I just say pancake and waffle bar (including chocolate waffles) with a selection of at least 10 different sauces (chocolate, vanilla, mango, etc.) to put on them? Yum!!

We had pretty much all kinds of weather on this day of the ABD, but we got pretty lucky weather-wise for the hike up to the ice caves, lunch and the falconry exhibition at Hohenwerfen Castle. Then came the fierce winds and driving, sideways rain.

It was a scenic drive from the hotel back into Austria for our tour of the ice caves, especially when we came in view of Hohenwerfen Castle, which we would visit later in the day. From the pictures that will follow, you will get an idea of just how high we climbed to get to the entrance to the ice caves, which involved two hikes of around twenty minutes each and a gondola ride (in between the two hikes). I think some on our trip felt the hikes were a little too strenuous, but I was thankful for the physical activity. After logging miles and miles walking around Prague before the ABD started, we hadn’t done much walking or other physical activity since the start of the ABD. And the views on the way up were amazing! I had to force myself to stop taking pictures of Hohenwerfen Castle below us, LOL. In fact, on the way up to the ice caves, the card on our camera gave us the dreaded “full” notification. It turned out the card still had a bunch of pics from a girls’ trip I had taken a few months earlier, so once we deleted those, we were good to go again. But we had to rely on iPhone photos for the rest of the day.

The ice caves did not disappoint. This was really a highlight of the trip for me. Unfortunately, there are no pictures allowed in the caves, but we did buy a couple of post cards that you will see in the photos, and it turns out the guides sneaked in a few pictures as well. It is really hard to describe the scale of the caves and the ice structures it contains. Just amazing. This is the largest ice cave in the world. There are no electric lights in the ice caves. In order to have enough light to see the structures and where you are walking, about every fourth adult visitor is given a magnesium lantern (open flame, thus the requirement that you be 15 or older to hold a lantern) to light the way. Our group had a dedicated guide, who led us up the 700 steps inside the caves (and yes, we had to come back down the same 700 steps), stopping at the various ice structures to talk about them and provide information about the discovery of the cave, the age of the ice (some of it 20,000 years old), etc. Given the cooler temperatures in the Alps, I had dressed in jeans and a long-sleeved t-shirt for the day. This was fine for the hike up to the ice cave. A short-sleeved t-shirt would also have been fine, since you tend to work up a sweat on the hike. But I wasn’t uncomfortable in what I was wearing. I definitely recommend wearing hiking shoes or sturdy sneakers. I didn’t want to lug my hikers on this trip for just one activity, and I was fine in my sneakers. We had packed gloves, and I am really glad we did. There are metal handrails in the ice caves that are very cold to the touch. I also wore a fleece zip up jacket and was warm enough in that. My fingers and toes were the only body parts that were really cold by the end of our hour and 15 minutes inside the cave.

After our tour of the ice cave, we hiked back down to where the gondola had dropped us off for our lunch at the Oodle House. It was warm enough to eat outside, and lunch consisted of traditional Austrian dishes served family style. The food was pretty good, although a little on the salty side. But the setting was great, and lunch was very relaxing.

After lunch, we were off to Hohenwerfen Castle. Luckily, we saw the falconry exhibition first, because the heavens opened up shortly thereafter. I really enjoyed the exhibition, even though there was no translation for what the trainers were saying. The fabulous setting made everything seem very dramatic. A guided tour of the castle was next, but it was cut a little short due to the fierce winds and driving rains.

When we got back to the hotel, there was an optional schnapps tasting for the adults. It was held in the hotel bar and was conducted by one of the bartenders who provided a little background on the different flavors of schnapps (and was generous with the samples). Jennae had likened the taste of schnapps (any flavor) to nail polish remover. Not a bad generalization, although I was able to distinguish a few of the different flavors. I actually really liked the chili chocolate schnapps. The tasting wrapped up pretty quickly since most of us were still wet from our adventures in the rain at Hohenwerfen Castle.

Dinner was on our own that night, and we opted for a very casual dinner in the lobby bar area. I had a bison burger that was very good (huge!) and cost something like $45. We definitely were not in the Czech Republic anymore, Toto!
 
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Morning view from the balcony of our room at the Intercontinental

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Morning shots from the hotel grounds

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Views from the coach on the way to the ice cave

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First glimpse of Hohenwerfen Castle from the coach

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Starting to hike

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The gondola

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View from the gondola

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Gondola drop-off

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This shows the entrance to the ice cave

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Check out how high we now are

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From the cave entrance

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Postcard of one of the ice structures

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We came down through this very cool ice tube

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The "elephant" ice structure. One of the guides' "contraband" photos.

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Heading back down

More photos to come...
 
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Found another secret guide pic of the ice cave!

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Games in the courtyard of Hohenwerfen Castle

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Setting for the falconry exhibition

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The heater for the castle

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We also took a tram to get up to the castle

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Schnapps tasting

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Wow! What a gorgeous area! I love the shot from your *hotel room window*!! And the castle, up on that hill is beautiful!

Sayhello
 
The reason the Schnitzel is so buttery is because it is fried in pig fat! (Schmalz)
Great job on your spelling of German terms like Habsburgs. :)
There is one chain of pit stops called Rosenberger that we loved so much as kids that we had lots of birthday parties in! Lol. I love the ice caves but even as someone who walks all day long i found ti to be quite a hike!
 
The reason the Schnitzel is so buttery is because it is fried in pig fat! (Schmalz)
Great job on your spelling of German terms like Habsburgs. :)
There is one chain of pit stops called Rosenberger that we loved so much as kids that we had lots of birthday parties in! Lol. I love the ice caves but even as someone who walks all day long i found ti to be quite a hike!

The pics are from a Rosenberger rest stop! I can see why a kid would want to have a birthday party there. And now that you have complimented me on my spelling of German terms, I have to confess to butchering Dr. Oedl Haus :)
 
The pics are from a Rosenberger rest stop! I can see why a kid would want to have a birthday party there. And now that you have complimented me on my spelling of German terms, I have to confess to butchering Dr. Oedl Haus :)
I can't believe that's a rest stop! Always nice to have a stop to look forward to! :)

Sayhello
 
Your trip report is amazing and I think we had a similar perspective from this trip (we were on the same trip). I also wished we had the whisper devices. The only time we had them was inside Schonbrunn Palace. I didn't even think to mention this in my survey though. Oh well.

You can see my trip report with pics at my blog but I also starting a new thread with it so we can have more discussion. Just love reliving the memories!
 
Your trip report is amazing and I think we had a similar perspective from this trip (we were on the same trip). I also wished we had the whisper devices. The only time we had them was inside Schonbrunn Palace. I didn't even think to mention this in my survey though. Oh well.

You can see my trip report with pics at my blog but I also starting a new thread with it so we can have more discussion. Just love reliving the memories!

Thanks, Karen! I saw your first blog post and am looking forward to reading more.
 
Today was all about The Sound of Music. The kids and I had watched the movie a couple of months before the trip to whet our appetites. And the guides showed the movie on our drive from the Czech Republic through Austria to Berchtesgaden, so we were suitably teed up for our day trip into Salzburg.

The drive to Salzburg took about 45 minutes. When we arrived, we met our local guide, Sabine, who led us into the Mirabell Gardens which houses the Pegasus Fountain where a dancing scene with Maria and the children was filmed. Then we boarded our Sound of Music bus to see a number of the other sites used in the filming of the movie. Sabine provided lots of interesting information about the movie and its reception in Austria and also debunked quite a few popular beliefs about the movie and its historical accuracy. Some might find the whole thing pretty cheesy, but I ate it up. I will try to describe a little of the tour here, but this is a case where it is probably best to just let the pictures do the talking for me.

Our first stop was the Schloss Leopoldskron, which we viewed from across the lake where Maria and the children tipped their canoe. The mansion was the setting for Maria’s folk dance with Captain Von Trapp on the terrace. And the trees the kids climbed in their curtain play clothes are next to the lake.

Our next stop was the Schloss Hellbrunn, which now houses the gazebo used in the “You are 16” scene with Liesl and Rolf. Schloss Hellbrunn was the country home of one of the Archbishops of Salzburg and is built in the style of an Italian Villa. The Archbishop had quite a sense of humor! We ate lunch at Hellbrunn and then were treated to a private tour of the trick fountains, which are quite entertaining. It was a rainy day, and between the rain and the fountains, my son was completely drenched after this tour! After the tour, we posed for gazebo photographs before heading back into Salzburg. Disney sprinkled some pixie dust and arranged for us to be permitted to take photos inside the gazebo, which is normally off-limits the public. (I wouldn’t usually let this information slip in a trip report, but I have seen it mentioned in other trip reports, so I think the “surprise” is out there at this point.)

After the Sound of Music tour, we had a couple hours of free time in Salzburg before meeting for our group dinner at St. Peter, which is the oldest restaurant in Europe, founded in 803. Salzburg is quaint and very picturesque, but it seems a little more touristy to me than when I first visited on a post-college trip years ago. Lots more chain stores than I remember from my first visit. But we enjoyed wandering around, stopping at the horse fountain used in the “I have confidence” scene in The Sound of Music and seeing the churchyard that served as a model for the abbey scene during the Von Trapps’ escape in the movie. Salzburg has some great cafes, and we stopped for a coffee/hot chocolate break during our wanderings. Dinner was very nice at St. Peter, and we were treated to a violin and viola concert while we ate. Then it was back to the hotel, a swim for the kids and to bed in anticipation of visiting the salt mines before heading to Vienna the next day.
 
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From the coach as we entered Salzburg. This bridge was used in the filming of the scenes where Maria is teaching the children to sing.

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The Mirabell Gardens

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The Pegasus Fountain

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Schloss Leopoldskron with the lake where the canoe tipped and the terrace used for Maria's dance with Captain Von Trapp

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The trees the children climbed

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The other side of the Mirabell Palace

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The wall Maria walked beside during "I have confidence." Also the mansion used for the front of the Von Trapp residence.

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Schloss Hellbrunn

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The garden with the trick fountains

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To be continued...
 
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The "You are 16" gazebo

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The abbey depicted in the movie

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The model for the scene where the Von Trapps hide in the abbey

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Salzburg

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Mozart's birthplace

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The horse fountain from "I have confidence"

To be continued in one more post….
 
So cool! I'd love to do the sound of music tour. It's a great trip report. I look forward to reading about Vienna.
 
Do the trick fountains go on randomly? The place with the squirting seats look very wet and can't tell if it's from the rain or the fountains.

Also, just wondering about the ice caves. Did they tell you the reason they don't allow photography? Is it to protect the ice from all the flash or photography rights issue?

This ABD is so picturesque!! Did you get to see a sample of Bohemian glass? What are the usual souvenirs you get from the Czech Rep. and Austria? Lots of questions. :)
 
So cool! I'd love to do the sound of music tour. It's a great trip report. I look forward to reading about Vienna.

Thanks, Cousin Orville. I've really enjoyed your Southeast Asia and China trip reports. You will recognize that it is your format that I copied :)
 
Do the trick fountains go on randomly? The place with the squirting seats look very wet and can't tell if it's from the rain or the fountains.

Also, just wondering about the ice caves. Did they tell you the reason they don't allow photography? Is it to protect the ice from all the flash or photography rights issue?

This ABD is so picturesque!! Did you get to see a sample of Bohemian glass? What are the usual souvenirs you get from the Czech Rep. and Austria? Lots of questions. :)

The trick fountains are not random, but I don't want to say any more than that so as not to ruin any surprises.

They didn't give a reason for the prohibition on photography in the ice cave, but I suspect it would be very distracting for the guides and the other guests to have flashes going off constantly. And it is so dark in the cave that you really would need a flash to get good pictures. I also think they don't want people stopping to take pictures and holding up the flow. There are many groups moving through the cave at the same time.

There were many shops selling Bohemian glass in Prague. It wasn't something we wanted to try to bring back with us, so we only window shopped when it came to the glass. Besides glass, we saw lots of wooden toys and souvenirs. Lots of nesting dolls. We bought some painted egg ornaments. We actually thought the shopping in Salzburg and Vienna when it comes to souvenirs was pretty disappointing. We were expecting shops with inlaid wood music boxes and cuckoo clocks, but really didn't find any. We did buy some things at the gift shop at the Spanish Riding School, but that was really the extent of our shopping in Vienna.
 

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